214-216. Ladhar Bheinn (111) (P600 42), Luinne Bheinn (234), Meall Buidhe (222). 19/09/2020

With some fabulous weather in store, taking in the hills of Knoydart became a possibility. In order to climb these three remote hills, one needs a boat or long walk-in to either Inverie or Barrisdale, where there are camping options (and in non-covid times, hostels). From there it's two long walks to climb the three most remote hills.

We walked along the delightful Loch Hourn in the afternoon and then lugged our camping gear up to 460m at the Mam Barrisdale, aiming to make the three hills possible in one long day. Our planning may have been assuming we were still in our twenties, but it did prove just about achievable.

The coastal walk was great and Barrisdale was a beautiful spot with ruined houses, tranquil waters and a large beach at low tide. We reached the campsite after 3h and saw half a dozen tents there, but we kept going up the wide path to our campsite in the bealach, reaching it 75 mins later. Here we ate our pasta and drank our whiskey as the sun went down.

In the morning, we were off before 8 with the luxury of one light pack between us. The grassy ground towards Ladhar Bheinn was a bit squidgy and therefore heavy going. This was compounded by some navigational inefficiency that led us to reascend on easier slopes before reaching the ridge. The walking along the ridge itself was superb, with some interest in the scrambling department and views out to Skye, Rum and Eigg. In fact, the only evidence we could see of human beings was a few houses on the southern peninsula of Skye. The only downside (so to speak) was the amount of reascent along the way - at least 200m of it.

We spent a while at the summit admiring our surroundings before heading back to the tent for lunch - a little behind schedule at just after 1pm.

Having replenished the water and food stocks, it was off to climb Luinne Bheinn, which was a straightforward pull up 500m of rugged Knoydart rock and by this time our legs were already beginning to find it tough.

From the summit, we made our way to the east top before following the undulatory path all the way to Meall Buidhe. However, the amount of rocky terrain we had to cover here made this both long and tiring and I was certainly feeling the exhaustion and needed a good rest.

There was a lot of chat in Cicerone about the route back under Lunne Bheinn, but we found a way of sorts without too much difficulty and were back at the tent before dusk, by which time a couple of other tents had been pitched nearby - not close enough to be considered poor etiquette I hasten to add.

It had been a great day, if a little on the ambitious side. After 11.5 hours, we'd walked 32.5km, including 2050m of ascent.

Walking in along the picturesque Loch Hourn

An abandoned house in Barrisdale Bay

Our campsite for two nights in the Mam Barrisdale

Ladhar Bheinn's north ridge and the snaking fjord of Loch Hourn from the summit

 Eigg, Rum and Skye from Ladhar Bheinn

Looking east to Sgurr na Ciche from the summit of Meall Buidhe

213. Mullach nan Coirean (236). 18/09/2020

Some unfinished business in the Mamores from our previous adventures here. With a plan to walk-in to Knoydart in the afternoon, we needed a hill to climb in the morning that would not exhaust us too much.

We left Glen Nevis at 8.30am and once again the weather was fantastic. The path all the way up this hill was excellent, so we made good time. Again the views were great from the top for the whole ridge of Mamores and of course Ben Nevis looming to the north.

Being down by midday allowed us enough time to walk into the heart of Knoydart for the endeavours to come.

Looking east to all the other Mamores

Layers of hills to the south, still covered in morning mist

 

211, 212. Criese (50), Meall a'Bhuiridh (45) (P600 41). 17/09/2020

As is often the way at the start of a trip, we needed an afternoon walk not too far north and this pair of hills were very efficient in terms of time required.

We parked up in Glen Etive after the long drive from Cambridge around 11.30am and started out by crossing the river and walking across grassy slopes that became increasingly steep. I certainly detected a slight lack of hill-fitness after months of lockdown and the ascent was a bit slower than usual, but stopped noticing the tiredness once the scrambling began in the upper slopes of Sron na Criese. Once over this lump, the slopes eased to the summit, from where we had grandstand views of all the hills of Lochaber and the vast expanse of Rannoch Moor in crystal clear visibility. Buchaille Etive Mhor was particularly present being just a few kilometers away.

The ridge over to Meall a'Bhuiridh was straightforward and from that viewpoint Rannoch Moor opened up still further. The descent took us past the ski slopes, but we stayed west of them and they didn't spoil anything too much. Re-crossing the river proved less successful that the first attempt and we both ended up opting for a cooling paddle rather than risking wet boots. A great circuit in some of the best autumn weather I've seen in Scotland.

At the top of Criese

Looking north to Buchaille Etive Mhor, Ben Nevis, etc

Rannoch Moor from the top of Meall a'Bhuiridh

Our line of ascent for Criese, with the shepherd in the background

This also marks the 75% stage of my Munro efforts, so there are some obligatory stats:

This quarter had a different feel to previous and perhaps a more relaxed pace. It included two stag dos and carrying each of my children up several hills, but also some long trips linking several days of walking.

Some of the favourites:

The Mamores (a camping ridgewalk adventure)

Lochnagar (we saw a brochan spectre)

Beinn Laoigh (pointy summit)

Liathach (great scrambling)

Beinn Dearg (wilderness)

Aonach Eagach (scrambling and views)

Criese (views and great weather)

Meall nan Tarmachan (looked great, but need to reclimb the ridge due to bad weather)

Beinn Sgritheall (great perspective)

Cairn Toul, etc (classicness, despite the midgies!)

Best weather: The Mamores

Worst weather: Carn Mairg

Tallest climbed: Cairn Toul (1291m)

Shortest climbed: Beinn Vane (915m)

Best campsite: The Mamores

Most exhillerating: Liathach

Best View: Criese

Most scary: Aonach Eagach (only a tiny bit)

Most classic: The Mamores

Most remote: Beinn Dearg

Worst midgies: Devil's Point, etc

Number climbed per group size:

On my own: 0

2: 50

3: 6

4: 11

5: 1

10: 1

16: 1

Number of new companions: 19

Longest walk: Mamores ridge (11hrs)

Shortest walk: Meall Bhuidhe (Glen Lyon) (3hrs)

Most efficient: Lochnagar (5 Munros in 7hrs 45) or the Mamores (7 Munros in 11hrs)