Thursday, August 29, 2024

282. Beinn na Lap (241). 26/08/2024

Having gathered 24 others (including most of the people I had climbed with) at Corrour YH, we were blessed with a perfect day for hillwalking. The day before and the day after were dreadful, but this BH Monday was clear and dry.

The walk itself was a fairly straightforward steady climb, boggy at first. Everyone was able to meet at the top fairly easily, where a few nips of whisky were enjoyed (out of a quaich, no less!).

The party included a 6 year old, an 80 year old and a 8-month old in a backpack. Full list here: Ben (88 accompaniments), Hilde (41), Chris J (30), Chris C (23), Jon (16), Mike (12), Mum (12), Oliver (10), Henrik (10), Harald (9), Ian (9), Chris T (7), Nina (7), Hamish (5), Fiona (5), Richard (5), Dad (4), Elodie (2), Victoria (1), Emma (1), Becca (1), Lukas (1), Zoya (1), Isla (0). Thanks to everyone for making the effort!

Beinn na Lap is the 3rd most popular final munro due to its accessibility and setting. The YH and Station House made the catering simpler. My first munro was almost exactly 22 years earlier, but having reclimbed Ben Nevis a couple of times, I can say I've done the round in 19 years, 9 months and 5 days, which can't be too bad for someone living in southern England. There were 137 days of walking and it has taken me to almost all corners of Scotland - it's also worth noting that I've climbed the original 284 hills that were on the list when I started.

I'm sure there are plenty I will climb again and I may go on to some Furths, P600s or even Corbetts and Grahams. At this stage, if I had to pick some favourites, Bla Bheinn and Sgurr Mhic Choinnich and Beinn Dorain stick in the memory, as well as days on the Grey Corries, Mamores and Aonach Eagach.

Other notable moments include: A brochan spectre and cloud inversion on Lochnagar, a 4-day single-pub crawl to Inveree, climbing Ben Hope after cycling the length of the UK, forgetting our car keys in the tent after a traverse of most of the Cuillins, 3 inches of snow on our tent in the Fannaichs, a sleeper-replacement bus (in February) where I had to guide the driver to Tyndrum, climbing 6 munros in 8h in Glen Shee, my Stag Do on the wrong Ben Vorlich (and the favour being returned on the correct one), rescuing a lamb (called Lambi) on Ben Lawers, a traverse of the Cairngorms involving a very long walk out with wet boots to Blair Atholl to make our train, paternity leave with an 8-month old Elodie in Assynt, climbing the Mamores in a single outing and nearly losing a boot in the river at the start, Hamish and Elodie's first munros, climbing Ben Cruachan a week before watching Andor (in which it features) and the approach by boat to the South Mullardoch ridge.

The Ben and Fi setting out

Group shot at the summit

Some young clamberers

Another summit shot from my perspective

A compleator



280, 281. Carn Dearg (231), Sgor Garbhe (208). 24/08/2024

With the date of the final munro rapidly approaching, I thought it best to have completed the rest first, so Hamish and I travelled in to Corrour early, pitched our tent, saw a dozen ladies go swimming in the loch and then set off in the drizzle up Carn Dearg.

Fortunately it wasn't long before the rain stopped and we then had about 4h of clarity and even a little sun. The route was easy going, without too much ascent and there was a path all the way up and across to the top of Sgor Garbhe. 

On the descent, to avoid crossing swollen streams, we aimed for the eastern end of the trees and found a path through a clay pigeon range (with a sign saying beware of the wild boars) that led to the track along the loch. We got drizzle from here, but had generally been pretty lucky with the weather. And having stayed dry-shod until the track, Hamish decided to go in a puddle that was a bit too deep and get one sodden shoe for the last few kilometers.

This was a very efficient pair of hills, with only 800m of ascent needed. The 20km took us 6h15.

Loch Ossian and Corrour from half-way up Carn Dearg

At the summit of Carn Dearg

Looking east to Sgor Garbhe


Ben Alder from Sgor Garbhe







Sunday, July 07, 2024

279. Sgor na h-Ulaidh (149). 26/06/2024

Having saved this single munro tucked away in Glen Etive for a half-day, we had time to climb it before driving south. We stayed in the Glencoe YH and left at shortly after 6am. Hoping to start walking at 7am, we were well ahead of time when we were driving down the glen and were hailed by an exhausted looking woman with two small dogs. It turns out that she had left her car in the ditch at the end of the road around 3am and was walking out to get help. She was probably only just over half way, so we agreed to help and take her to the main road. This set us back about half an hour, but she was very grateful and we were still setting off only a few minutes after 7.

The first part of the walk is the same as that of Beinn Fhionnlaidh, which I had climbed with Hamish and Elodie the previous month, except there had been a lot of forestry work in between and in fact we got to see some of that in action!

After 3km of forestry track, we continued along the fairly pathless and damp approaches to the hill. We were gradually climbing, but when we eventually met a line of fenceposts near a broad bealach, progress became better. These fence posts turned up the hill and acted as a good guide for us as the faint path was occasionally lost through the rocks.

Despite being a mostly clear day, the top was still in the cloud, so we didn't stay long. The descent was once again fairly gentle and we finished the 15km and 950m of ascent well ahead of the book at only 4h25.

Sgor na h-Ulaidh to the right of centre from the forestry track

A big of clag at the top


277, 278. Beinn Fhada (100, P600 61), A'Ghlas-bheinn (273). 25/06/2024

Having spent the best weather day climbing the long ridge in the mist, we could well have expected today to be miserable, but in the end it remained dry throughout. It was still cloudy, but even that lifted somewhat in the afternoon.

We parked at the mountain rescue hut and followed the well-made NT path round in the mountain. This climbed steadily into the cloud and with a final steep climb we were onto the ridge which was felt by the legs after the previous few days of walking. Then it was a straightforward gradual pull up to the top, where we met walkers from Glen Affric.

We descended back to the top of the steep section and then continued along the ridge to the north, looking for the grassy route through the rocks that avoids the need to lose too much height. I think we sort of found this (it was very steep at times) and we were able to make our way to a very picturesque bealach that we shared with several deer. Here there was a small path on to A'Ghlas-bheinn and we could even see where we were going as the cloud had lifted! There were many false summits as we approached the top and unfortunately the last few metres were still in the cloud, but there were no difficulties.

The descent was quite long, but soft and grassy, which was much appreciated. We headed west to avoid the steepest slopes and reached the track by a stone bridge, which took us south to join our outward path. In all, the 22km and 1500m of ascent took us 7h20.

The top of Beinn Fhada

The bealach before ascent of A'Ghlas-bheinn

An inquisitive guest

A nice grassy descent

272-276. Beinn Fhionnlaidh (128), Mam Sodhail (14), Carn Eighe (12, P600 60), Tom a'Choinich (41), Toll Creagach (77). 24/06/2024

Climbing the 5 munros between Glen Affric and Glen Mullardoch in a day is a serious undertaking, with most estimates around the 11hr mark climbing from the car park in Affric and with a substantial detour to get to the smaller Beinn Fhionnlaidh behind the main ridge.

We were therefore very fortunate to stumble upon another way of doing this. We learnt (at around 700m on Sgurr Mor, as you do) that a man living in Cannich will happily take walkers from the dam on Loch Mullardoch and deposit them right at the foot of Beinn Fhionnlaidh. He can be found on social media and charges £40pp at time of writing, but this was well worth it!

From the shores of the loch, it is a steady climb following a stream southwards before turning west up a broad ridge with scattered rocks that becomes quite steep towards the summit. We had drizzle and cloud the whole way (which was a bit disappointing given the forecast, but there was some hope it would lift.

From here we dropped down a short way before starting to climb Carn Eighe. Instead of going to the top, we were aiming to contour round at about 1050m. We didn't get this quite right and ended up on a slightly lower contour, but this was rectified just before the lowpoint between Carn Eighe and MamSodhail. From here it wasn't a long climb to the top of the latter. Here we found a large broch-like stone structure that can only be described as a shelter, but without any opening in the walls. I climbed on top and then down into it to eat my sandwich - it seemed like the right thing to do.

I'm surprised this and Carn Eighe are allowed to be considered separate munros with only about 130m of reascent between them, so we were soon on our third munro of the say - still in the drizzle and with slightly weary legs.

The high ridge between here and Tom a'Choinich was rocky and interesting and included a few bits of scrambling - it would have been spectacular in clear weather. It was only after the top, when we dropped down to around 1000m that the weather cleared. This provided a well-timed morale boost for the remaining distance over to Toll Creagach, which in the end seemed very easy in comparison to its neighbours. Near the top we met a chatty man (with two tired-looking labradors) who warned us that our descent choice was arduous, but this turned out to be unfounded. In fact it was quite a soft (if occasionally damp) grassy ramp east then north-east to some deer fences. From there we found a wet path through the heather to the dam.

By chance, we arrived back at the car at the same time as 3 walkers with whom we had shared the boat. They had climbed the four munros to the north of Loch Mullardoch. In all, the day's 23km and 1750m of ascent had taken a mere 8h25. 

Setting out in style

The look of a man who has saved himself a 2h walk-in

The broch at the top of Mam Sodhail

Descending from the ridge into the sunshine

Looking back from Toll Creagach, with the high peaks in cloud

The feeling of 5 munros in the legs

270, 271. The Saddle (121), Sgurr na Sgine (223), 23/06/2024

After a cloudy 9am start, we made good progress up the well-made path that leads to the Forcan Ridge. At 450m the views began to open up and we could just about see the peaks of the Saddle clearing the cloud. 

As we approached 700m, the scrambling began. It was sustained an interesting, but with lots of good holds and without any serious difficulty or exposure. There was one tricky bit ducking around a boulder that was quite exposed and I wished I were a bit smaller. After the first top we had a look at the descent of the "bad step" from the top and thought it looked a little foolhardy, so we descended the gully that went off to the left just before it. We were vindicated when another experienced walker did the same without even considering the downclimb. Apart from that we kept more or less to the crest of the ridge. We enjoyed a well-earned rest on the (second) top and admired the dramatic views. 

As we descended across to Sgurr na Sgine, we passed other groups of walkers. This is a popular hill and plenty avoid the Forcan Ridge altogether. The initial climb up SnS from the bealach was steep, but beyond that it was straightforward. From there to the top of Faochag was a broad high ridge walk, from where there was a rocky (but efficient) descent to the road.

We took slightly longer than the book - possibly due to taking our time on the ridge and we were back in 6h30 for our 15km and 1250m of ascent.

The author contemplating the serrated Forcan Ridge

Looking back at "Bad Step" after circumnavigation

The whole ridge in profile from Sgurr na Sgine

Ben at the Saddle's south top

Looking back at the descent ridge

269. Sgurr Mor (132), 22/06/2024

Here started the somewhat serious business of trying to climb 11 hills in a long weekend so as to make completion possible later in the year. As Ben eloquently put it: "We're not here to have fun, there's a job to do". Needless to say, we managed to have fun.

This is a hill where I'd been forced to turn back in atrocious conditions earlier in the year. Today the weather was OK if a little cloudy and we preferred to save the Saddle for a less cloudy day, so back we went to Glen Dessarry and over into Glen Kingie. Fording the river Kingie after 90 mins of walking was no trouble at all, but bear in mind this is what had ultimately turned me back on the previous venture for fear of being swept away.

The next section can only be described as arduous. We climbed steeply up soft thick grass for 500m of ascent to reach the ridge - it was sapping and made me feel unfit with the need for several stops. Once on the firmer ground of the ridge, it was of course easier going and we were soon on the cloudy summit. 

A bit of drizzle accompanied the first part of the descent, but that arduous grassy section was a blessing on the knees and we were soon back across the river and making our way out. We also had the good fortune to meet a cheerful fellow (also approaching completion) who gave us a small transportation hint for Loch Mullardoch two days later - more about that in another post.

We made it back to the car dead on the time in cicerone - 6h10, 19km, 1250m ascent.

The Corbett on Sgurr Mor's east ridge

The summit, plus a bit of weather

Ben looking pleased with himself

 


Sunday, May 12, 2024

268. Beinn Fhionnlaidh (198), 11/05/2024

Elodie's father had the slightly crazy idea that she should summit a munro before he finishes them. Elodie long-sufferingly agreed and chose this hill, it being one of the shortest that remained unclimbed. Hamish accompanied us - to maintain his lead over his sister (obvs).

We drove up on Friday night and got up early to be walking at shortly after 11am. The small parking area was packed with cars, it being a hot Saturday in May, but we didn't see many of them on the hill. We managed to squeeze a small Mercedes in somehow and were on our way. 

The 3km of forestry track passed quickly, then down to the bridge over the stream before beginning the climb in earnest. Here, to maintain team morale, the snack stops had to become more frequent. There was a moment when Elodie realised how much more climbing there was to go and a pep talk was required, but generally we were climbing at a good steady rate. Enthusiasm increased as we got higher up.

Many boiled sweets were consumed, but we reached the summit ridge by 2pm and the top by 3pm, where there were a couple of scrambling moves that were a bit tricky for small people. We circumvented the first, but chose to tackle the second (requiring a pep talk to the other child). At the summit, we had great views over the hills of glens Coe and Etive and even Ben Nevis in the distance.

The descent was taken carefully and included meeting a sheepdog who had climbed 277 munros(!) The trudge down the track at the end wasn't the most popular, but all-in-all this was a huge achievement for a 7 year old. The 14km and 950m of ascent took us 6h40. 

Two intrepid explorers getting their first sight of the target

Nearing the summit

Elodie learning what a "trig point" is. Hamish making sure he gets in the photo too






Wednesday, April 17, 2024

266, 267. Ben Ime (118, P600 59) , Beinn Narnain (259). 14/04/2024

The previous day had been a washout which included: getting very wet, walking for 4h without being able to see anything, failing to cross a large stream because the torrent would have been above our knees and calling Mountain Rescue to assist some fellow walkers in trouble.

This made me determined to get a decent walk in before driving south, despite (yet again) poor forecast. Chris was less fussed. Despite 70mph winds and lots of rain on the mountain forecast, I had optimistically noted that prior to 10am the local forecast did appear dry, so that's when I decided to walk!

The schedule went as follows: 
  • 05:40: wake up
  • 05:55: leave hotel, eating "breakfast" on foot (half a packet of biscuits)
  • 06:02: start route
  • 08:15: summit Ben Ime
  • 09:25: summit Beinn Narnain
  • 10:47: finish route
  • 10:55: quick wash and change
  • 11:00: hotel checkout
This was a strategy I hadn't really tried before (being rather a breakfast traditionalist), but I'd recommend. There was probably a point about an hour in where I felt a bit lower than usual on energy, but it passed quickly. The views in the (brief) early morning sunshine were spectacular and I had the trail to myself until returning to Beinn Narnain.

The path as far as the three-way junction between these two hills and the cobbler was also excellent - so much so that I failed to find the tiny worn stream that was the actual route up Beinn Narnain. In the end I was glad to tackle them this way round as it meant the weather was behind me more often than not.

I made good time and stayed dry until climbing Beinn Narnain when I had snow. I only got (the less preferable) rain on the final descent. All-in-all I was pleased to beat the weather gods and complete the 17km and 1300m of ascent in 4h45.

Narnain and the Cobbler at first light

Ben Ime still clear of cloud

In the mist at the top of Beinn Narnain

 

265. Gairich (272). 12/04/2024

With some signs that we may have over done it the day before and with very poor forecast, we went for an easier option today. 

From the Loch Quoich dam, we walked south along a "wet path" (which wasn't all that wet really) for 3km before climbing gently west for 3km on the long approach to the peak (mostly on a path). For all this time, the top was clear of cloud, but as we began the final stiff climb the clouds rolled in. We definitely felt we'd got better than the 10% chance of cloud free tops and we only started to get rain on the return journey.

We were a bit damp when we got back to the dam, but not drastically so. The 16km and 800m of ascent had taken us 5h30.

Gairich from across Loch Quoich

A closer view of the broad ridge to the top

 

263, 264. Creag Mhor (84), Beinn Heasgarnich (62). 11/04/2024

As is often the case, hill choices and plans of attack often hinge on weather. There was to be plenty of weather on our long weekend, but the only day we might avoid much rain was the first day. Despite normally preferring a "warm-up day" to start with, we chose something a little longer to make the most of it. We still braced ourselves for upland gales and 10% chance of cloud-free tops.

The walk began with a yomp along the valley to ease us in before making our way up the shoulder of Creag Mhor. There was a decent path most of the way, although we lost it briefly when locating a gate in the deer fence. Approaching the summit we were going into the wind, but it wasn't a problem and the top was just about cloud free when we got there.

It took us a few minutes to locate the way down to the west, but it was obvious when we did and we then bent round north then east to descend into the bealach, before attacking the nose of Beinn Heasgarnich's first top. There was quite a bit of reascent and we only found the path higher up, but the weather was too our backs which meant we were at the top without too much fuss. The walk along the ridge was excellent, being blown along by the weather. Again the top was arguably cloud-free (yes that makes 100% cloud-free munros MWIS!).

There were a few descent options and we chose the route to the east, which Cicerone described as "interesting". It turned out to be "sapping" and quite long, but at least soft on the joints. Then it was an easy walk back down to the road. In all (with 2km more on the road than Cicerone), we took 8h15 for 27km and 1300m ascent.

BH from the shoulder of CM

Bounding up to the summit ridge of BH, with alacrity

Nearing the top of CM

Looking east from the top of CM

A snow bank (that we slid down) at the top of BH

 

Friday, June 02, 2023

261, 262. Sgurr Choinnich (139), Sgurr a'Chaorachain (78). 30/05/2023

Another clear day in the highlands for this walk up the same glen that I'd cycled a month prior. We made rapid time, which was good for the various transport logistics that ensued after the walk.

At least 6km striding along an excellent track was followed by a rope bridge across the river (unnecessary in such dry conditions - I walked through the water) and then a gentle climb up a path leading ultimately towards Lurg Mhor. When we reached the shoulder of Sgurr Choinnich at about 650m, we turned left and scrambled up a small path to the summit (with plenty of interesting bits along the way). Competitive tendencies came to the surface when it was discovered we had a chance of our first morning munro of the trip, so we climbed without a break to get there at 11.58. Such is the madness of youth!

It was an excellent vantage point and the short ridge across to Sgurr a'Chaorachain was short and sweet, meaning we were trotting down the steep grassy side and rejoining the track in no time at all. Apparently my descent line was again novel, but it got me to where I wanted quite efficiently. Overall, a straightforward loop of two great hills.

5h50, 21km, 1200m

Some antics crossing the wire bridge

Some scrambling up the shoulder of Sgurr Choinnich

Looking back from Sgurr a'Chaorachain on the ascent party


259,260. Beinn Liath Mhor (258), Sgurr Ruadh (195, P600 58). 29/05/2023

One of those frequent wall-to-wall sunshine days in the highlands.

Chris was permitted a lie-in, so we only made it to the trailhead in the nick of time to pinch the last parking space. The first part of the climb was up a path through the scrub before the barren Torridonian landscape opened out and the day's route became clear. 

From 400m to the east top of Beinn Liath Mhor was a steep climb up a zigzagging path that was quite sapping on the legs, but the views greeting us on the top were worth it. It was quite a bumpy ridge and the shattered rock and scrambling made for slowish progress here, but we were also taking our time to enjoy the clear tops. 

The descent to the bealach was filled with interesting terrain and small challenges to keep us entertained, but it didn't take us too long to reach the second munro of Sgurr Ruadh. Here we met our second large party of 10+ walkers at the summit - the hills were positively packed on such a sunny Bank Holiday.

The descent went past the impressively buttressed Fuarr Tholl corbett and onto a path back to the car park. I even braved the midge to dip my toes in the stream near the start - the joys of a spare pair of socks!

6h40, 18km, 1300m


Beginning the summit ridge of BLM

Yours truly before the descent to the bealach

SR looking suitably Torridonian


255-258. An Socach (67), An Riabhachan (29), Sgurr na Lapaich (24, P600 57), Carn nan Gobhar (152). 28/05/2023

With a near-perfect outlook for a few days, we embarked on the somewhat audacious northern Mullardoch ridge, which the guidebook recommends splitting into two walks!

We needed a fairly early start and were at the dam by 8.15am, whence the walk begins with a 10km lochside path (of sorts) before making its way gradually up to the remote An Socach - first along a path seemingly in the middle of nowhere and then across peat hags and up a steep shoulder to the curved summit ridge. We arrived shortly after midday to find a fellow walker on his fourth munro of the day, which was good going!

From here it was an undulating and sometimes scrambly ridge to An Riabhachan across several minor tops and the conditions were excellent without being too warm. Sgurr na Lapaich was the highpoint and involved the only significant bit of re-ascent of the day, but there was nothing challenging. The view back from Carn nan Gobhar (which does well to be considered a separate munro) was spectacular. 

My companions were sceptical as to my descent line from here, but I maintain it made the most efficient use of the soft grassy bits to get us back to the loch in rapid time. We made surprisingly good time and overall this walk shouldn't be considered a daunting prospect. It contained a pleasing amount of ditance spent at a high level.

9h50, 32km, 1900m


Our first summit of the day after a good 4h of walking

Looking east along the ridge

South from SnL

The summit of CnG

Joe enjoying the vista of SnL